Mayes Guitars

Wit the neck set to the correct angle it is time to fret the guitar.  I've done the fretting before and after finish many times but it seems to go a bit smoother for me to do it before.  Here I leveled the fingerboard flat using a straight edge to check along it's length.

After getting the fretboard surface level it's time to install the frets.  Since the guitar's fretboard is "faux bound" (meaning it gives the impression of binding while it's not actually bound, but the fret slots are inset) I have to trim the ends of the tang so the crown overlaps.  

I then press all the frets in place using a special tool with the correct radius to match the fretboard  (16").

After that there is just a lot of finish sanding and cleaning up.

With the guitar bound it's time to cut channels for the neck and fit it to the body.  First off I rout mortise' to fit both the heel tenon, as well as one that will leave room for my fingerboard tenon.  I ustilize a Double Mortise and Tenon neck joint.  This was pioneered by Dana Bourgeois, and it is a brilliant neck joint.  I've modified it a bit from what he uses, but the concept remains the same.

Routing the pockets using custom made jigs (by me) for my guitars dimensions.

And the fingerboard tenon utilizing my binding carriage for hold down.

With both these cut I can test fit the neck:

Then I trim the heel so that, when the heelcap is applied, it lines up just past the purfling.  I then use PSA sandpaper to attach to the body while I move the neck back in forth using the mortise and tenon as a guide.  This fits the neck so that it mates with the body seamlessly.  This process will be repeated with much finer grit sandpaper later.  Right now I'm getting a fit.  At this point I also make sure that the angle of the neck is proper to meet up with the bridge, as well as the fretboard/neck is pointing directly down the center and not askew.